All that’s left of a once iconic North College Hill bar and grill is the simple yellow and red neon sign that now hangs in the American Sign Museum in Camp Washington. A few of its chairs made it to the North College Hill Historical Society Museum, and it’s Ken’s Hot Wings recipe is circulating on social media and in the homes of families who have connections to NCH. The sign, which emblazoned the nights on Galbraith Road for 70 years, shares a dignified spot in the museum’s event space amongst signs of other local businesses like Skyline Chili and City Hall Café.
When Bud and Edna Schlewinksy bought the bar on the corner of West Galbraith and Grace Avenue, in 1939, from a car dealership, they had no idea what a legacy their business would have for the community. Budna was a cute mashup of their two names. It became a rite of passage for NCH’ers coming of age. When the drinking age was 18, you celebrated by getting your first dime draft beer at the Budna. Boston may have Cheers, but North College Hill had its Budna.
They advertised in the church bulletin and supported their local Catholic parish, St. Margaret Mary, and sponsored many sports teams over the years, from hockey to baseball. Many generations of NCH’ers drank and ate there, including my dad and his three brothers, Jack, Fred, and Fuzz. When I was in high school you would still see people wearing sweatshirts and jackets from Budna. They competed against a neighborhood of bars like the Maple Leaf, Juniors, Swing Doors, Pinto’s, DeWitt’s Gardens, and even the German Bund Club, but they lasted longer than any of them. Their hot wings and fried fish sandwiches on rye were so legendary, they did as much carryout business as they sold in the bar. Who knows if it was the fish or the homemade tarter sauce that kept people craving.
Bud and Edna’s son, Ken, took over in 1966, after serving in Japan during World War II, and ran the place into his 80s, until he passed in 2009. It was Ken and his wife Marie, who many still remember. In 1986, Cincinnati Magazine rated Budna as one of the top jukeboxes in Cincinnati. They said you could have a burger with Jimi Hendrix’s “All Along the Watchtower,” or homemade soup with Don McLean’s “American Pie.”
Chris Hoeweler, a College Hill native, and former chef of Trio bought the place and tried to revive it as an upscale burger place, he renamed Van Zandt’s after the original name of Galbraith Road. Chris even brought back the special mettwurst Stehlin’s Meats supplied for the annual Mettwurst Dinners at Matthew United Church of Christ in Winton Place that he remembered from his youth. But, unfortunately he wasn’t able to connect in with NCH the same way the Schlewinskys had with Budna.
And so, in 2014 it became Swad, an Indian restaurant. My Dad and Uncles would not recognize the Vindaloo or Biryani.
Budna Grill Wings
Ken’s wing sauce – Mix 1 whole bottle of Frank’s red hot sauce (made in Cincinnati), 1/2 stick margarine, add cayenne and red pepper to taste, add black pepper and garlic salt to taste.
In a sauce pan, simmer the above.
Deep fry wings or boneless strips for 10 minutes at 325 F.
Toss wings in hot sauce, place on baking sheet and bake for 20 minutes at 400 F.
Enjoy with an ice cold Hudy or Bavarian.
dannwoellertthefoodetymologist 